How to Setup a Muskrat Den Set

What is a Muskrat Den Set?
While most of the traps and sets that you read about regarding muskrat involve the various features of their very obvious trails in some way or the other, this particular set eschews the trail completely. Muskrats either live in lodges made of reeds or underwater burrows dug into the banks of streams; these dwellings are generally referred to as “dens”.

And any set that takes advantage of the entrance of such a muskrat den is called, not surprisingly, a Muskrat Den Set. This article serves to educate you on the basics of the Muskrat Den Set, along with the pros and cons of using them.

Basic Setup:
Like most muskrat sets, this one is also named after the location of the trap as opposed to its construction. This means that, theoretically at least, you could use any water-based trap designed for a muskrat with this set. Practically however, you are most likely to catch a muskrat is you use a Body Gripping trap (Conibear, for instance) or a Foothold trap. The Conibear Traps are markedly more successful than the Foothold ones, but if your state prohibits their use, then the foothold trap is a decent alternative, especially if supplemented with support and tangle stakes.

Locating the den is a fairly straightforward process. The lodges are easily spotted because they resemble a small stack of hay sticking out of the water. The underwater bank dens are a bit trickier to locate, but are still fairly obvious because of the constantly disturbed earth just outside the den entrance. So if you see muddy water leading away from the bank, you should examine it for a muskrat den.

Please note that you should consider getting wet when looking for these bank dens because they can cave under your weight if you just walk along the bank itself. Also, if you somehow happen to locate an obvious bank den that does not have freshly disturbed earth near the entrance, it has probably been abandoned and you should move on.

Once the den has been located, all that’s left is to set the trap. The Conibear trap should be set just outside the den entrance, but preferably as close to the underwater earth as possible. Use a vertical support rod or stick to firmly fasten the trap in place. You could also use smaller twigs and sticks to funnel the animal even further into the path of the trap. The support rod also serves as a marker for the trap site if you want.

Advantages of this Set:

No bait or lure is necessary for this trap. In fact, bait is best avoided in order to minimize the risk of luring other species to the trap.
Quite easy to set up once the den has been located. All you need is to purchase a conibear or foothold trap from your local Hunting store or online.
Disadvantages of this Set:

It can be a bit dangerous to locate the dens without entering the water, as they can cave in under your weight. And if you enter the water, then you will get…well, wet.

How to Setup a Muskrat Board Set

What is a Muskrat Board Set?
The Muskrat is nothing if not adaptable. They tend to stay active throughout the year, even during the harsh winter months when the surface of the water bodies that their dens are located in freeze over. While this makes trapping them a touch more complicated, it is not completely out of the question. The Muskrat Board Set is the ideal, perhaps the only viable option during this interesting time.

It is essentially a board with a trap and bait attached that is partially submerged in the water through a hole cut into the ice. This article serves to educate you on how to set up your own Muskrat Board Set and the pros and cons of using them. For more tips on a related topic, please visit our article on [Trapping Muskrat Under the Ice].

Basic Setup of a Muskrat Board Set:
While a Board Set can be used on land as well, it is best used when trying to trap muskrat under the ice. During the dead of winter, locating the muskrat den or trail isn’t as straightforward as it is during the summer. But the key tip is to look for air bubbles that are trapped under the surface of the ice, as they lead to and away from Muskrat dens. The bubbles will be visible through 10 centimeters of ice, but any thicker and you’ll probably not be able to make them out.

And this goes without saying, but make sure the ice is safe enough to handle your weight before you even think about setting up this trap.

The first thing to do is to cut out a hole in the ice that is wide enough to allow both the board set and the soon-to-be trapped muskrat to pass through. You can use any number of tools for this, though we would recommend an ice spud. The board set consists of a wooden board, usually 1×4 of 7 or so feet in length. Carve a wedge into the end that will be shoved into the water, and consequently the earth under it at about a 45 degree angle. This will help to keep the board set in place. The trap itself should be a foothold one for best results.

This set works best with bait; some might even say that it is a requirement. A small raw carrot will do quite well. The bait should be affixed to the area of the board that is approximately 2-3 inches under the ice surface and the trap should be another 2-3 inches below the bait. Lean the board against the ice hole and it should freeze over in time to secure the board set completely. Check the trap every 24 hours (you should be able to see through the ice) and cut the hole open again around the board set to retrieve your catch.

Advantages of this Set:

This is essentially your only real option to catch a muskrat during winter in the water. The set is also very reliable and can be reused even years after its construction.
Disadvantages of this Set:

If the ice is either too thin or too thick, then you’ll not be using the Board Set any time soon.
Obviously there will be more risk of trapping in the cold too.
In general, you’ll find most trappers having a preference in what trap is best. Its really going to end up with you trying a trap or technique and seeing how it works. Personally, some trapping techniques don’t work for me; while I have others simply saying I’m doing it wrong. In the end, you can give it a shot and see how it ends up! It may be the best trap you’ve ever tried.

Tips and Techniques To a Muskrat Runway Set

What is a Muskrat Runway Set?
Muskrats love the water, especially the shallow parts that allow them to occasionally peek up out of the surface. As a result, they dig out furrows into the earth at the bottom of the underwater trail and these furrows are referred to as muskrat “runways”. And as you might imagine, these runways make for very good trapping locations. Any set that takes advantage of a runway to catch a muskrat is called, not surprisingly, a Runway Set. This article seeks to educate you on the basics of how to set up and optimize your set and the pros and cons of doing so.

Basic Setup of a Muskrat Runway Set:
Since this trap, like most muskrat sets, is named more for the location of the set than its construction, you could theoretically use any trap that is designed to catch a muskrat for this set. Practically, however, you are better served restricting yourself to Conibear traps or Box/Cage traps.

Foothold traps are not ideal for this set because the water is too shallow. And as always, be sure to familiarize yourself with the trapping laws in your state before you set one up. If you’ve decided to go with the Conibear variant, then make sure that the entire trap is submerged.

Trap to catch muskrat
Conibear Muskrat Trap
This will ensure that the muskrat drowns. Also note that you will need to secure the trap in the runway using a sturdy vertical support rod or stick. Once the trap is fastened, you could use other smaller twigs and sticks to block off the area around the runway, though this is an optional step as muskrats are nothing if not creatures of habit.

box trap for muskrat
Box Trap for Muskrat
The Box or Cage trap variant is even easier to set up. All you have to do is place the trap along the runway and you’re golden. Make sure to weigh the trap with some stones or something similar, however, because you don’t want the flowing water to move the cage. And as with the Conibear variant, make sure to submerge the trap completely in order to facilitate the quick drowning of the muskrat. Use double ended versions and if you’re lucky, you might even catch two or more at the same location.

Advantages of this Set:

These traps, like most effective muskrat traps, do not require bait. This is a good thing because Muskrats are quite resistant to bait owing to their omnivorous diet and usual abundance of food around their dens.
Easy to set up once the runway is located. All you need to do is purchase a Conibear or Cage trap from your local hunting store or online.
Disadvantages of this Set:

This set does require a bit of legwork in order to locate the runway. While muskrat are among the easiest animals to track, it can still be a bit of a problem for newcomers. And unlike with other animals, you cannot fall back on bait for muskrat traps except in special circumstances.

Tips, Tricks and Techniques on Trapping Muskrats

Trapping muskrats is quite possibly the best way for one to induct oneself into the arcane world of trapping. There are just so many things the muskrat has going for it. Its soft fur, its meat (if prepared properly, of course), its complete lack of trap-shyness, its amphibious lifestyle (allowing for water and land trapping depending upon your preference) and last but not least, its plentiful population.

While they aren’t considered the most difficult game to trap, they certainly afford a fun way to develop the habits and knacks that any successful trapper needs. This article aims to inform its reader on some of the more useful tips on how to nab the loveable rodent. So here are the top 4 tips on trapping muskrats:

Locating the Lair:
As with most animals, the den or living area is usually a safe bet when setting the trap. This is certainly true in the case of the Muskrat as well. The trick to locating the den, which is essentially an underwater burrow dug into the bank of the stream or lake, is the earth around its entrance.

Freshly disturbed or dug earth is a sure sign of an active muskrat den and they can be spotted with relative ease because of the muddy water around the area. Also note that muskrat can sometimes live in huts made of reeds and grass, but these are quite easy to spot because they resemble small bales of hay that stick out of the water’s surface.

Tracing the Trail:
I think it’s safe to say that, of all the creatures in the animal kingdom, the muskrat is clearly the one that is least concerned with keeping itself anonymous. They frolic about the woods and streams with reckless abandon, without a single thought for the almost ludicrously obvious trails they leave in their wake. But luckily for us, this makes them easy targets for the novice trapper.

There are several unique features in the muskrat’s trail that set it apart from other woodland or semi-aquatic creatures, and each muskrat set is basically named after these features. For more info on the subject, please visit our article on the [Best Types of Muskrat Traps].

To Bait or Not to Bait:
The general rule of thumb when it comes to bait is that it usually helps rather than hurts. However, except in very specific circumstances such as trapping them under the ice, using bait with muskrat traps is not a good idea. Muskrats are omnivorous and semi-aquatic, which means that they have more than enough choices when it comes to food. This makes them bait resistant, while at the same time not at all trap-shy.

They are, however, creatures of habit and it takes a lot to dissuade them from their established trails. So generally speaking, a trap set on a muskrat trail will work just as well with bait as without it. However, the presence of bait does increase the chances of some other animal coming along to ruin the show. So you’re better off not using the bait after all.

Choosing the Chains:
When it comes to muskrats, you could use pretty much any kind of trap. But not all of them are created equal, and the most effective traps are the Conibear trap and Foothold trap. Cage traps can also be used, but they are not the best fit for many of the muskrat’s trail features. And snares are not nearly worth the hassle for trapping muskrats. So stick to Conibear and Foothold traps unless your State isn’t fond of them.

Muskrat Slide Set: Best Tips and Techniques to Muskrat Trapping

What is a Muskrat Slide Set?
Muskrats are rather bold creatures, and they have little problem travelling quite far from their dens for food should the need arise. And since they are semi-aquatic, they are as comfortable in the water as they are on land. The point where these topological preferences meet is also a perfect spot to place a trap for the muskrat.

When a muskrat leaves the water to get onto land or vice-versa, they carve out channels into the earth. These channels are colloquially referred to as “slides” and any trap that takes advantage of them is called a Muskrat Slide Set. This article will provide basic setup instructions as well as the boons and banes of using this set.

Basic Setup of a Muskrat Slide Set:
Since this trap, like most muskrat sets, is named more for its location as opposed to its construction, you could theoretically use any trap designed for a muskrat. Practically, however, some traps are far more effective than others. And for this set, heavier Foothold traps are ideal, especially when aided by support and tangle stakes.

Since you are using a Foothold trap, it is important to submerge the trap about 3 inches or so under the water’s surface, just where the slide begins. Lay the trap such that when triggered it is parallel to the bank. The support and tangle stakes should be placed a few feet away in deeper water depending upon the length of the chain on the foothold trap.

The support stake keeps the muskrat from being able to drag the trap too far away, while the tangle stake will ensure that the muskrat’s wild struggle will only serve to drown it faster. The heavier traps are better for this set because in addition to downing the muskrat faster, it also serves to trap larger animals that might accidentally trigger it.

Advantage of this Set:

These traps, like most Muskrat sets, do not require baits or lures. In fact, using bait will only serve to attract other unwanted species to the trap. Another reason for the absence of baits is because the muskrat is hardly left wanting for food except during the dead of winter.
They are quite easy to set up after the slide has been located. All you really need is to buy a foothold trap from your local hunting store or online if you prefer.
Disadvantages of this Set:

While locating muskrat slides is child’s play for the experienced trapper it can still be something of an issue for the novice. Since this set doesn’t allow for the usual standby of baits or lures, locating the exact slide spot is all the more important. So expect to do at least some legwork before you actually get to deploy the trap.
At least the locations are restricted to the banks of water bodies known to house muskrats, so simply follow the bank until you see a patch of earth that has been flattened out by something roughly the roughly the size of a muskrat.

How to Remove Rabbits from Traps: Easy Tricks and Tips

So you’ve finally managed to trap that elusive rabbit after several failed attempts. You’re probably thinking to yourself that the hard part is over and all that’s left is to retrieve the animal from its prison. How hard could that possibly be, right?

Well, the short answer is that it is harder than you think. You simply cannot reach your hand into and pull out a rabbit.. Even though it seems that easy in magic..

Wild rabbits are burrowers and a lifetime of burrowing has given them very strong hind legs. And their surprisingly sharp claws don’t help matters either. Don’t make the mistake of confusing the rabbits sold at pet stores with the ones found in the wild; you would not be the first rabbit trapper to lose his catch with only a bleeding hand wound to show for it. The rabbit does not want to stay trapped, and it will do whatever it can to get free with all the desperate strength and speed that survival instinct can muster.

The problem with removing rabbits from their traps is that most humane and live traps need to be opened first. And that is an opening that the rabbit will not miss. This is why live traps tend to be on the longer side. It is so that you can tilt the trap backwards and ensure that the rabbit would have to climb or leap straight up in order to get to the opening.

Three Ways of Removing Rabbits From Traps
You have three ways of removing the rabbit from the trap, broadly speaking. One is to neutralize it or incapacitate it before opening the trap. Your mind might already be running to the idea of shooting the critter with a small calibre gun, but be warned that ricochets are a very real danger. It does not make for the most impressive hunting story when you end up getting shot by your own weapon. Not to mention, gunshots can ruin a rabbit’s pelt and meat; so if that’s your goal, guns are out.

You could stab the rabbit with a long knife, but then you’d have to deal with a bloody trail and a bloodier trap or will have to wait till the creature bleeds out. Also some people simply do not have the stomach for an up-close-and-personal kill like that.
Another efficient, but expensive alternative is to tranquilize the rabbit and then retrieve it at leisure. This isn’t the most effective way to remove rabbits from traps, but it still is worth mentioning even though the average joe won’t be doing this.
The second way to remove rabbits from traps is to open the trap after tilting it and grabbing its hind legs with one hand while firmly gripping its body with the other. This should allow you to remove the animal with little chance of it struggling free, as long as you don’t hold back with the grip strength and keep it well away from your face and eyes.
Some people have mentioned using a large bag in which should calm the rabbit down along with keep the handler and rabbit itself safe when trying to remove rabbits from traps. As mentioned earlier, wild rabbits aren’t going to lie down and roll over for you.

Note: that this method does not ensure that you will avoid all scratching, but it should keep the damage to a minimum. You can always use thick gloves to further lower the risk.

Now all that’s left to do is to transfer it to another cage or a humane kill. But that is an article for another day.

I’d like to leave you with one more bit of advice. Rabbits do have problems with ticks and parasites, so be sure to shower and wash your clothes thoroughly after handling the animal.

Top Baits for Trapping Rabbits: Give These a Shot

When it comes to rabbit trapping, there are two main concerns. First would be the location of the trap and the second is the quality and type of bait. The most complicated and efficient trap in the world would be of little value if the prey in question has no motivation to trigger it. There are several schools of thought when it comes to the ideal bait; in a way, they are almost like secret family recipes for chili. One person may swear by one type of bait while another might have little success with it once and denigrate it forevermore.

The key to preparing the ideal bait is to understand all the factors that influence the rabbit’s preference for it. Weather, ambient temperature, proximity to more appetizing food, the species of rabbit in question and rate of decay are all quite crucial considerations. So spend some time researching the area and the animal before you commit to one kind of bait over the other.

That being said, research and observation can only take you so far when determining the baits for trapping rabbits. Unless lady luck happens to favor you considerably, some trial and error is pretty much a given before you figure out the best bait for your situation. So start out with the basic bait, and if unsuccessful, then work your way up to the unusual ones.

Try not to interfere with your trap or change the bait before giving it a decent amount of time to work. The more you fuss with the trap, the stronger the scent that you leave on it. Bait has the added task of covering up enough of the human scent for the rabbit to approach the trap and you should do all you can to lessen that burden.

So with that in mind, here is a list, in no particular order, of the best bait for trapping rabbits.

Carrots and Leafy Vegetables:
Seeing as how rabbits are herbivores, it makes perfect sense that leafy and root vegetables would make for decent rabbit bait. It is better to use these vegetables during the winter months, as food is scarce then and rabbits are more desperate. Another trick would be to create a short trail of vegetable bait leading up to the trap itself, so that the rabbit has time to lower its guard.

Apples and Apple Cider:
Despite what certain cartoons may have taught you, rabbits don’t subsist only on carrots. They are also notorious apple fiends and the fruit can be very successful as bait, even if it’s only the core or is slightly old. A really useful trick is to spray or coat the inside of the trap with apple cider, because this will essentially eliminate the human scent from the trap.

Hard Corn:
This is an underused bait for rabbit hunting, but some people swear by it. What is appealing about corn is that rabbits seem to be drawn to it regardless of the season. So be sure to give it a try if the above mentioned baits aren’t cutting it for you. To mention, its also extremely cheap and you can buy it in bulk.

I’d like to leave you with one last bit of advice; avoid rabbit “pet” food sold at stores. They are ineffective when applied to wild rabbits and are comparatively expensive to boot. Hopefully this list of best baits for trapping rabbits came in help, it may take a little time figuring out what works best but you’ll eventually start catching rabbits in no time!

How to Snare a Rabbit: Trapping Made Easy

Rabbit snaring can be a tricky proposition. Unlike other types of rabbit traps, snares require a good deal of tweaking and legwork to actually be effective. Not to mention the fact that snare traps are essentially do-it-yourself by nature. Sure, you can purchase snare wire and starter kits, but setting up the trap is where most of the effort comes into the picture. So if you’ve decided to snare a rabbit, then you may count yourself among the more dedicated breed of trapping enthusiasts.

This article is geared toward providing tips and tricks to maximize the efficacy of your snare trap when learning how to snare a rabbit. Visit this link for detailed instructions on [How to Make a Rabbit Snare].

The first and perhaps the most crucial step when it comes to setting up a proper rabbit snare is location. Unlike other traps that rely on bait to lure their prey, snares rely more on trails and tracks. Rabbits are essentially creatures of habit, and while they do adapt somewhat to changes in routine, for the most part they will fall for traps that take advantage of their habitual nature. So explore the woods a bit and try to locate as many rabbit trails as possible and shortlist the more isolated ones for the actual snare sites.

The next important step is to accurately estimate the size of the rabbit that you’ll be trying to snare. Well, “accurately” might be a strong word, but it wouldn’t be such a bad idea to use some other trap to catch a couple of rabbits so that you can get a closer look at them. The reason you’re doing this is because you need to determine the dimensions of the snare loop based on the dimensions of the rabbit itself.

rabbit snare diagram for trapping
Photo by james.marchington / CC BY
Too large and the rabbit will just pass through the snare. Too small and the snare will close before it effectively traps the rabbit. So the size of the rabbit and consequently the size of the snare loop is crucial to the snare trap overall.

Besides the size of the snare loop, the material and gauge of the wire is also important. While you could theoretically use any kind of wire, stainless steel is usually your best bet. Rabbits can get fairly desperate once they’re trapped and it is not unusual for them to chew and gnaw their way out of snare wire. So if this happens to you, don’t hesitate to move on to a higher gauge or a stronger material. Given the low cost of snare traps as a whole, experimentation is hardly a problem.

Next we have the branches that you use to create the funnel that surrounds the snare loop and directs the rabbit into the snare trap. Some trappers state that adding too many branches and twigs around the snare will scare the rabbit out of the trail, but it is my experience that the opposite is true; the rabbit actually gets scared into the snare loop instead. Another point to note is that the branch or stick that you use to actually suspend the loop must be very sturdy and preferably rooted or firmly attached to something that is.

On a final note, I’d like to suggest that you not use bait of any kind with snare traps. This is primarily to keep other animals from accidentally triggering the snares. Your goal is to just have that rabbits walking through the trap based on their movements from a trail. Learning how to snare a rabbit will take some time, so don’t expect to learn in too quickly.

If you end up having trouble learning, try to use more snares as it’ll increase your chances of snaring at least one rabbit.

How to Make a Rabbit Snare Trap

So you’ve decided to take the road less traveled and have opted out of using the more popular box or cage type rabbit traps? That decision is to be applauded, but do keep in mind that snare traps can take some trial and error and a good deal more research and legwork before you are successfully able to snare a rabbit.

The good news is that snare traps are probably the cheapest to make. All you need is some snare wire (or any wire really, but we’ll get to that) and maybe an axe to cut some small branches. The real effort comes from trying to figure out exactly what rabbit you’re going to snare and locating the trail of said rabbit. This is crucial because the dimensions of the loop and the location of the snare both depend upon those two factors. So go ahead and explore a bit to get those two things right.

Now let’s move on to actually constructing the snare trap. The first thing you’re going to do is create an inverted triangle over the most isolated portion of the rabbit trail that you can find. The isolation is primarily to keep other people or animals from interfering with the snare. The upside-down triangle is to funnel the rabbit into the snare loop that you will suspend roughly in the center of said triangle.

rabbit snare diagram for trapping
Photo by james.marchington / CC BY
You will need to find or cut branches to form that triangle. The orientation and thickness of the branches depends upon the size of the rabbit and the existing foliage and trees surrounding the portion of the trail that you’ve chosen. Just make sure that the one branch or stick that you suspend the snare from, which can be vertical or horizontal, is thick and either firmly rooted or attached to something solid, preferably the ground or a tree.
The next step is to make the star of the trap, the snare loop. The material of the wire is again dependant on the type of rabbit, but stainless steel is the reliable choice. Pick the gauge that seems to be the best combination of strength and flexibility for the species that you’re trying to snare.
Take a good 30 inches of the snare wire and form a small loop of about 2 inches diameter at one end by coiling the wire and twisting it around itself a few times, like a twisty tie that you might find on a package of sliced bread. Now take the other end of the wire and thread it through the existing loop to form another loop roughly an inch smaller than the largest diameter of the rabbit’s body.
Now tighten the first loop into a knot to keep your larger loop in place. Take the unaltered end of the wire and loop that around the branch that you have chosen to suspend the snare loop from. Continue to loop it until the snare feels secure and is adequately tracing the rough center of the triangular funnel that you formed earlier. That is it for your basic rabbit snare.

Since the snare is located along the rabbit trail itself, bait is usually unnecessary, especially as it might attract some other critter to your snare site. Just remember to adjust the dimensions of the snare loop if you don’t notice any results for a few days.

Basic Rabbit Snare Traps: Easy Snares That You Should Try

Rabbit trapping has always been a popular sport in most of the Western Hemisphere. Since they are small and skittish herbivores, the critters present little danger to the novice hunter or trapper. This low risk coupled with their nearly limitless potential to breed makes them ideal for the neophyte. Not to mention the fact that their meat is quite palatable and their fur quite soft.

The icing on the cake is that while they are low risk prey, they are also quite quick and provide the perfect amount of challenge as well.

This article will focus more on the trapping (as opposed to the hunting) aspect of rabbit game. So without further ado, here are the top 6 ways to catch rabbits, in no particular order.

Catching Rabbits by Snaring:
A snare is, in essence, a trap that subdues a small animal by tightening a noose of rope, cord, wire or string around some part of its body. Snares appear more complicated than other kinds of traps at first glance, but if you take it step by step they are much simpler than you might think.

They do take a good deal of setup and legwork though, so give yourself a decent amount of time to deploy them. Also note that snaring requires a licence and some types of snares are illegal in certain countries. For a more detailed look at snaring techniques be sure to read our [How to Snare a Rabbit], [How to Make a Rabbit Snare] and [Rabbit Snare Traps] articles.

Catching Rabbits using a Pit Trap:
Pit traps are brilliant in their simplicity; just dig a deep enough hole near a rabbit trail and disguise it so that it blends in with the rest of the trail. The real trick when it comes to these traps is the selection of the twigs and sticks you must use to form the base of the trap. Their length and width are crucial to ensuring that the rabbit actually triggers the trap with its weight.

There is a slight concern when it comes to removing the creature from the pit, not to mention the fact that other unintended prey might trigger the trap instead. But when all is said and done, the pit trap is a solid option for trapping rabbits. For more information head over to our [Top Rabbit Traps] article.

Catching Rabbits with the aid of Beagles (aka Beagling):
Beagles are almost synonymous with rabbit hunting, owing to their extensive use for the same. If you happen to own a beagle (or a pack of them), then it won’t take much training for you to turn it into a rabbit trapper instead. Just place netted traps around a suspected burrowing region and use the dog to flush the rabbit out and chase them back into your trap.

Catching Rabbits with the aid of Ferrets (aka Ferreting):
Similar to beagling, ferreting is essentially the same concept. But instead of man’s best friend, we use a rabbit’s natural enemy. Ferrets are expert burrowers themselves and utilizing them to flush out rabbits will rob the poor critters of the only real advantage they had left. Male and female ferrets are referred to as “hobs” and “jills” respectively.

The jills are preferred to the hobs for rabbit trapping because they are less likely to fall asleep after killing and eating the rabbit in its burrow, a process referred to as “laying up”. Locator devices can easily be used to counter this problem, however. Ferret care is also good deal more complicated than caring for a beagle, so keep that in mind if you ever decide to get one. All things considered, however, the ferret is the most efficient partner for the enterprising rabbit seeker.

Catching Rabbits using a Live Cage Trap:
A live trap, as the name would imply, is a humane trap that serves to catch a small animal or bird without injuring or killing it. They have become popular as mice traps over the last couple of decades and the same concept can easily be extended to rabbit trapping.

The contraption resembles a small cage that has a trap door and a system of pulleys to ensure that whatever gets in, stay in. They also come in models that have trap doors at both ends, effectively doubling your chances of catching your critter.

The last ingredient is appropriate bait and you have a simple yet efficient mechanism for trapping yourself a rabbit. The best thing about these traps is that they are readily available from most hunting stores, so the effort involved is minimal. For more information on how to build your own Live Cage Trap, visit our article on [Homemade Rabbit Traps].

Catching Rabbits with a Box Trap:
While they are technically live traps themselves, box traps are different in that they are made of wood or cardboard and are closed off with the exception of one face. This does present the disadvantage of not being able to see what creature has actually triggered the trap, but some might argue that this surprise offers a charm all its own. The trap usually employs a lever system to toggle the trapdoor once the rabbit reaches the bait. Since these traps usually employ gravity as the powering mechanism, they are unsuited for uneven surfaces.

They are relatively easy to make and cheap to purchase, however, so they’re ideal for those trappers with limited budgets. And the best thing about them is that they are versatile; simply switching the bait will allow you to trap pretty much any small critter, like squirrels and mice. To learn how to make a simple rabbit box trap, be sure to visit our page on [Homemade Rabbit Traps].

And there you have it, our top 6 ways to catch and trap rabbits. If you can pull off even one of the methods mentioned above, you’re already well on your way to becoming an expert trapper. All it takes is a little bit of dedication and a whole lot of patience.